Devils Tower Climbing Guidebook

Plan your adventure or let us guide you to the best climbing Devils Tower has to offer.

Things to know before you go

  • Many of the more popular climbing routes have bolted belay stations, but don’t count on it.
  • Expect the route ratings to be hard for the grade (especially on a hot summer day when the rubber on your climbing shoes is melting in the sun and you did not bring enough water).
  • If you are going to climb at Devils Tower on your own, make sure you take a good selection of protection.  There are a few sport climbing routes but the Tower is known for its high concentration of cracks.
  •  A double set or more of nuts is awesome to have while climbing at the Tower.  
  • The pitches can be quite long and often eat up your rack before you get to the end to carry plenty and bring enough draws.
  • Carry plenty of water and a first aid kit and expect to be responsible for your own rescue if an accident happens.
  • Do not count on cell service out there.
  • WEAR CLIMBING HELMETS, as there is a lot of loose rock that falls off Devils Tower.
  • Make sure that you know exactly where rappel routes are located and how long of climbing ropes are required to use them.
  • Take care to prevent ropes from jamming in cracks when pulled.
  • Follow Leave No Trace ethics and plan to pack your poop out!  Wag bags are available at low cost in the Visitor Center store.
  • You must register to climb above the boulder field on Devils Tower.  Plan to stop and talk to the friendly climbing rangers or at the rock climbing registration station before you head up.

The National Park Service likes to keep track of how many climbers are enjoying the area and where they are going. Talking to the rangers and reading the signs at the kiosk is important. We all need to follow the rules if we want to continue to enjoy good climbing access at Devils Tower. It’s a good way to check the weather and get good route and rap info before you head out. 

If starting or ending early or late or during the off season you can register at the self-registration kiosk located in the center of the parking lot at the base of the Tower. During regular business hours the visitor center is open for questions and assistance, but don’t count on the non-climbing rangers to know everything or anything about rock climbing on the Tower. Do your route research before you arrive, or plan on climbing with a guide.

Because parking is rather limited at the Devils Tower Visitor Center, climbers are asked to park their vehicles in the gravel parking lot. To get there, hang a right at the stop sign just as you are about to enter the main visitor center parking lot.

As with most rock climbing areas, make sure that you have done what is needed to be self sufficient in the event of an emergency. Devils Tower National Monument does not have a vertical rescue team. If something does happen, please help those around you get to safety and call 911 as soon as you can so that rescue personal can meet you at the base if needed.  Devils Tower is in the middle of nowhere, expertise and rescue personnel may take hours to arrive if they are available at all.

Prairie Falcons also call Devils Tower Home.
During the spring there is often a closure of routes surrounding their nesting sites. The Falcon Closure often runs from March to July. Once the young have fledged the routes will be re-opened to rock climbing.

There is a Voluntary Climbing Closure during the month of June (more information).  Please do not plan to visit during this time of year.

Devils Tower Mini Climbing Guide.  

(We have a lot of this info written up, but need to get it added to this new website so please check back for more info and route descriptions)

Devils Tower Routes in the 5.7 – 5.8 grades

  • Durrance
  • TAD
  • El Cracko Diablo 
  • Bon Homme
  • Patent Pending

  Devils Tower Routes in the 5.9 – 5.10 grades

  • Soler
  • Tulgey Wood
  • El Matador
  • Burning Daylight
  • Broken Tree
  • Assembly Line
  • Dusk in DogTown
  • Tulgey Wood
  • Carols Crack
  • New Wave
  • Hollywood and Vine
  • Casper College

  Devils Tower Routes 5.11 and up

  • Mr. Clean
  • McCarthy West Face
  • McCarthy North Face
  • Carols Crack
  • Bloodguard
  • Deli Express
  • Tunnel Vision
  • Misty Morning Melody
  • Refractal
  • No Holds for Bonzo
Here is some info on 

The Devils Tower legends and early history:  How it got its name? How it was formed as told by the American Indian Tribal legends?

Devils Tower Geology – How did those cracks form?  Is Devils Tower made of Granite?
What does it look like on top of Devils Tower?