Wow, where did July go?  No rest for anyone here at Sylvan Rocks Climbing School.  The Black Hills are alive with guest.  The climbing is great and the weather is awesome. 

As you can tell....there is little time left to blog, so this will be short.  Did carve out a few hours to do a little filming with SD Tourism and  April at Lawrence and Schiller.   We only had time to run out behind Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park and climb a route called Inner-Course."    Its easy and super fun.  Just moving over stone.  We climbed it several times to get several camera angles.  Good fun.

Kudos and Thanks to April though for being the first person with a film crew that we got to climb and shoot video on anything beyond Practice Rock!

Next time though...we want to film the West Buttress that climbs up Outer Outlet.  That route is so pretty, but we'll need some time to do it right.

Here is a link to our YouTube Channel.   If anyone wants to edit some video...I have lots of it...just no time to put it into anything that is worth viewing.  We need more hours in the day here in the Black Hills.

News Release from Devils Tower National Monument

June 25, 2010

Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure

To protect prairie falcon (Falco mexicanus) nesting sites, the National Park Service (NPS) temporarily closed climbing routes along the west face of Devils Tower beginning April 20, 2010

. This closure is an annual event established under the monument's 1995 Climbing Management Plan, with authority from the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. NPS professionals have been surveying the Tower to determine the presence or absence of nesting prairie falcons. To date, the surveys documented early nesting behavior by the falcons but lately no activity has been observed around the nest site. Under authority of the park Superintendent and in consultation with biologists from the National Park Service Intermountain Regional Office, park climbing rangers and resource management staff climbed to the site to determine if it was currently being utilized by the falcons.  Observations indicate that the nest site has been abandoned.  The falcons have since been observed flying around the Tower but have not been exhibiting behavior consistent with nesting or tending young.  Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Saturday, June 26, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include climbing routes on the west face between and including the “Vulture” and “Abject Cathexis” (routes #154-176 in the Devils Tower climbing handbook) as well as the “Tulgey Wood” and “El Matador” rappel routes.

NPS professionals will continue to survey the Tower to determine the presence or absence of nesting prairie falcons, and climbing and rappel route closures may change in the future based on the location and behavior of nesting falcons. Any areas closed due to nesting falcons will remain closed until young falcons fledge, generally between July 15 and August 1. Updated information on climbing access can be obtained at the climber registration office, the park climbing kiosk, or at the park visitor center or administration building.

These annual closures are implemented not only for the protection of the birds, but also for the protection of climbers, as prairie falcons are known to defensively dive in order to protect their nests. Prairie falcons are extremely protective of their nests and are easily driven from an area. The presence of climbers near or above falcon nests is distressing to parent birds; too much disturbance from climbing activities may cause falcons to abandon eggs or chicks.

Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Mark Biel, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212.

What the heck is a Moonwort you ask?  Well good question.  Moonworts are plants that are rather tiny and related to ferns.  Not a lot is know about them, but for the past several years the Black Hills National Forest has been working with Don Farrar an expert in the field of Moonworts, and a team of dedicated volunteers and professionals to find and learn more about these plants.



Botrychium is the Latin name for Moonworts, and there are many species being re-found, and new ones discovered as interest and awareness spreads across the country.  Its not easy work though.  As you can tell from the picture of Cheryl above, they are small, and finding a green plant that is an inch and a half tall in a field of green grass in a place like the Black Hills National Forest that is 1.3 million acres large takes some dedication.  It also takes a lot of crawling around.  "You kind of get a feel for where they 'should' be and train your eyes and suddenly you can see them....sometimes....maybe..."  say veteran hunters.  Having tried it a few times myself...I can comfortably admit, that I don't yet have the eye.....nor the patience it takes to find these little jewels.  I do know that Moonwort fever can make otherwise calm cool adults crazy with excitement.  Much like the excitement climbing a rock...only very different, as instead of being up high seeing beautiful things...you are really close to the ground finding hidden jewels.




If you are interested in learning more about these great little plants and others around the Black Hills, join the Moon Walk, scheduled June 26th at 7pm and a Black Hills Botanist to listen, look, and, learn about the world around you.  Moon Walk details and a link to the entire moonwalk calendar on the Black Hills National Forest Service website.

From the Black Hills National Forest News Release

Note: All walks take place on a Saturday night at 7 pm from May through September. All Moon Walk times and places are subject to change due to weather or other unforeseen circumstances.  Before each walk, please check your local newspaper, the Black Hills National Forest Newsroom or call the Mystic Ranger District office in Rapid City at 605-343-1567 to confirm details and directions.

 

Link to the rest of the pictures.

Well it's been raining so much here in the Black Hills and much of the west that every water way is full to the brim.  For a rock climber that's bad news, as it means you have to get up early to avoid the rain and sometimes still spend a serious amount of quality time at the local coffee shop surfing rock climbing sites, and dreaming of dry rock.  But if you are a duck or a kayaker...the weather is perfect.

As I do seriously enjoy kayaking....I set off with a couple of friends to paddle Rapid Creek into Rapid City South Dakota.  The day got started a little slow as the truck would not start at all.  Had to deal with that a bit before the rig would crank up and get me out of the driveway. I'd been procrastinating that job so it was good to get it done in Indy Pit Crew fashion...and now it's crossed off the list.

Anyhow.  Paddling down Rapid Creek is a great way to spend the day.  Whitewater kayaking is a rare thing in the Black Hills.  It would be great to have some whitewater rafting here in the Black Hills, but the water is so rarely this high so normally there just isn't any place to do it.

All was well, warm in our gear and loving the sweet whitewater.  I can't explain why I love to kayak so much, but when its good...its really really good.  The catch is, that all that fun can go bad in the blink of an eye or the surge of a wave.  I'm sure that's part of the thrill....why do so many folks like scary movies???  We like to be scared, so living on the edge brings an element to life that is hard to verbalize.   If you've been there, you know what I'm trying to describe, and how it makes you grin ear to ear and makes life so much richer.  If you can't understand....well in some ways I envy you.  You are not addicted to 'the rush' like many of us are.  As addictions go...being addicted to outdoor recreation is a pretty good one, but like any other obsession....it can have its price.

Being swept through the forest on a magic carpet ride of whitewater takes you to parts of the Black Hills that few people get to see or enjoy.  Having kayaked through out the west and down in Patagonia...I can attest, that it has regularly taken me to some of the most beautiful places anyone will ever have the pleasure of visiting.

With the water on Rapid Creek surging, we were all pretty focused on the paddling at hand.  Kayaking is full body.  You are in the water, in the rapids.  The rise and fall… the acceleration and the sudden stop as one wave drops you into another wall of water...often you are on ht edge of knowing whether you are coming or going or even which direction is up.  Just stay cool and remember that “keep paddling” is the mantra.

All was going well and it was looking like a perfect run till we got through the rapid called "the Hummer" and decided that Mike should hike back around, and do it again as we wanted a photo of someone kayaking it.  The second running of the drop did not go so well for our favorite "mirrored glasses wearing super hero."  After reviewing the pictures...it looks like Mikes line took him a bit to far river left.  "The Hummer" needs to be run straight down the center tongue of water.   The rocks on either side of the tongue are not to be messed with as when you drop 6 feet or so being pushed by 350+ Cubic Feet per Second of water…you get going pretty fast.  And if your face then catches a rock…well, the full coverage helmet becomes money very well spent!  Mike was a super trooper, and took the super hit like a champ, broke a tooth…….got a hole in his lip, but rolled back up and paddled into the eddy just fine - stirred not shaken!  Kudos for being cowboy tough!  And super kudos for paddling through the next few rapids not being able to see because his glasses were smashed as we evacuated.

My take home lesson was that even though I was pretty relaxed in the creek, I should have been much better prepared for the unexpected then I was.  First aid training is a pretty important thing if you are going to play off the beaten path. There is some great books out there, but a 3 day Wilderness First Aid Course from the Red Cross is even better and a 10 day Wilderness First Responder course is not overkill.  When you visit spots that are several hours from an ambulance ride…its up to you when the poop hits the fan.   If you go out there…you need to be able to take care of your buddies, deal with the unexpected, and that means donating time and cash to getting trained properly or hiring a guide who has been trained properly. Either way, you need to accept the responsibility of dealing with what comes up.  So making sure that you are dressed for success in less then ideal conditions, and that a first aid kit is in your pack rather then on the shelf at home collecting dust like mine was yesterday.

Oh yeah...and remember.  Helmets are cool!  I've got a big kayak helmet, but that full face deal is looking mighty fine about now.  Hate to see what might have happened to my buddy Mike without the chin guard.



Sure was great out there though.  Can't wait to get back.

Link to the rest of the pictures.

If you want to learn more about kayaking in the Black Hills.  Check out the Black Hills Paddlers website

Facebook page with the most up to date info. including the presentation to the Rapid City 2012 committee.

There is a group of paddlers working to put a Whitewater Play Park in Rapid City, SD.  If you'd like more info on that,  here is a great place to start. Rapid City Kayak Park. 

A play wave that is 'designed' can be a much better way to learn about paddling then in a place like the Hummer.  Play waves tend to have less injuries if a boater messes up and can add a lot of great recreation to a town like Rapid City.   Boaters are great fun to watch.







 

Mount Rushmore has already changed their plans for the 4th of July celebration from Fireworks to live entertainment because of the infection of their trees by the Mountain Pine Beetle (due to fire danger with the dry dead trees), and today they announced plans to treat the trees surrounding the faces of Mount Rushmore with hopes of slowing the spread of the beetles.

The official Press Release is below, but what it says is that they will be cutting down and removing some infected trees and spraying others with insecticide.  While they are doing this they will be closing areas that they are working in...this may affect your rock climbing trip to the Mount Rushmore Area if it happens to overlap with this work.

Mount Rushmore is home to some of the oldest and largest trees in the Black Hills National Forest so I understand their reason in wanting to protect them, but the beetle kill is an act of nature and so I find it rather interesting that the National Park Service would choose to interfere with it though the use of pesticides.

Many of you will notice that the Black Hills are changing and the forest will become more open and in many ways more "natural" due to the Mountain Pine Beetle that is currently at levels that are well within the historic norms.  The suppression of fire allowed the forest to get overly thick, and with the drought of recent years combined with many other factors to start up the Mountain Pine Beetle cycle here in the Black Hills and many other forest across the western states.  I always find it interesting how mother nature has a way of working things out.    We will all experience great new views of the beautiful landscape that surrounds us as the trees fall.  Already with the work that Custer State Park and the Forest Service have done...there are rock faces exposed that I have not seen (or Climbed on) even though I've lived here since the mid ninety's.


Thursday, 3 Jun 2010
Mount Rushmore National Memorial News Release


       Mount Rushmore Implements Mountain Pine Beetle Action Plan
     (Keystone, SD)  On Friday, June 4, 2010 Mount Rushmore National
Memorial will begin implementing the Mountain Pine Beetle Assessment and
Action Plan to address the mountain pine beetle (MPB) epidemic that is
occurring in the central Black Hills.  The action plan was developed by an
interdisciplinary team earlier this year and outlines steps that would
protect the memorial from wild fire, and would slow, and hopefully mitigate
the spread of the pine beetle, while protecting some of the old growth
forest of the memorial.

     The first phase of the plan will begin on Friday and involves
identifying green trees that are infested with the MPB.  These trees are
currently hosting the newest generation of pine beetles and have been
killed by the beetles.   Pine beetles in green infested trees typically
leave the trees in July and August to find new host trees.    With the help
of South Dakota State University and the South Dakota Cooperative Extension
Master Gardeners, Mount Rushmore will be surveying the forest to identify
and mark green infested trees.  Once these trees have been identified, they
will be cut down and dried out to remove and kill the immediate pine beetle
population that is in the park.  This process will be done every year to
identify any new beetle infestations.

     The second phase of the plan will begin Tuesday, June 8 to protect
the large diameter, high value trees within the visitor areas.  High value
trees have been identified as trees larger than 10 inches in diameter and
ones that contribute to the forested views of the memorial.  If these trees
were gone, visitor views of the memorial would look very different.  The
trees will receive a preventative insecticide spray that will ensure the
forested views of the memorial will remain intact.

     Mount Rushmore has identified over 700 trees to be sprayed during the
month of June.  Carbaryl 4L insecticide spray is the chosen spray for this
project.  It has proven success in the Black Hills and has also been used
in Rocky Mountain National Park to combat the MPB.  Trees will be sprayed
on their trunks by spray units on the ground.  While the spray is being
applied to the trees, many visitor areas may be closed to the public.
Actions to insure the health and safety of park visitors and staff include
park closures to keep sprayed areas secure.  Areas that have been sprayed
will be closed to visitors and staff for approximately 3-5 hours while the
carbaryl dries on the trees.  Once the spray is dry, the area is safe to
reenter.  Signs will be posted near the sprayed areas to identify trees
that have been sprayed.  Spraying is scheduled to occur in the early
morning, with areas closed to the public until 12 or 1 pm.  Areas will be
sprayed in sections and include trees along the Presidential Trail, around
the historic Sculptor’s Studio and along the roadways.

     The memorial hopes that these proactive and preventative measures
will protect the park’s forest from the worst damage caused by the current
MPB epidemic.  The most active area of MPB infestation and highest
concentration of tree mortality is in close proximity to the memorial and
the oncoming infestation has recently been observed within the park as
well.  The current outbreak appears to be larger and more widespread than
historically typical.  Mount Rushmore’s MPB Assessment and Action Plan was
developed to address the current epidemic and identify actions that will
return the forest to a more historic and sustainable condition that can
naturally protect itself against future pine beetle infestations.  The
final action plan is available on the NPS Park Planning website,
http://parkplanning.nps.gov.

Wow, its June again, and I just wanted to pass along another news release I received from Devils Tower about the June Closure.  The Falcons are nesting on the west side and so there are routes closed there as well.  The Devils Tower Falcon Closure is not voluntary like the June closure, so defiantly stay off those routes.  The more popular routes that are closed are Mr. Clean and El Matador.  There is another blog post with the specifics if you are interested.

There is a lot going on over at Devils Tower, and I hope everyone respects the June Voluntary Climbing Closure, as it is supported by the Access Fund and most climbers as a way of preserving climbing access there, and respecting the Tribal beliefs of people who hold the area sacred.



Photo of Devils Tower, taken by Sylvan Rocks Climbing from a small airplane.   If you ever wanted to know what it looks like on top of Devils Tower....here is a picture of it.  Honestly, it's better viewed while standing there after climbing to the top.

JUNE VOLUNTARY CLIMBING CLOSURE IN EFFECT FOR DEVILS TOWER

Devils Tower National Monument superintendent Dorothy FireCloud announces a voluntary climbing closure for the month of June. The 1995 Devils Tower National Monument Climbing Management Plan established a voluntary closure for all climbing routes on the Tower out of respect for traditional cultural activities of American Indians. The voluntary closure has been implemented each June since 1996, and has proven successful: the average number of climbers in June has seen an 85% reduction.

The National Park Service appreciates the efforts of those climbers who choose to observe the closure. In addition, the Access Fund, a nonprofit organization working to maintain access to climbing areas and protect the climbing environment, fully supports the June Voluntary Closure. Most permitted climbing guides do not bring clients to the Tower during the month of June. Rangers at the monument can provide information on alternative rock climbing sites in the area.

American Indians have long regarded the Tower as a sacred site, and many feel that recreational climbing desecrates the Tower. Traditional cultural activities occur at the park throughout the year; however, June is an especially significant time when many ceremonies take place.

The Tower boasts a rich and colorful climbing history that dates back to the late 1800s when it was first scaled by two local ranchers using a wooden ladder. Climbers from all over the world consider Devils Tower to be a unique and premier climbing area. Currently, about 4,500 visiting climbers come to Devils Tower each year. Although it is sometimes assumed that climbing damages the rock, contemporary climbing technology has little impact on the Tower.

The 1995 Climbing Management Plan provides direction for managing climbing activity in order to protect natural and cultural resources on and around the Tower. That plan was updated in 2006, in order to address issues of resource protection, climber education, and climber safety. Both plans, as well as updated closure information, can be found at www.nps.gov/deto.

In addition, a number of the Tower’s west face climbing routes remain closed for protection of nesting prairie falcons. All west face climbing routes will reopen later this summer.  National Park Service professionals will continue to survey the Tower to determine the presence or absence of nesting prairie falcons, and climbing and rappel route closures may change in the future based on the location and behavior of nesting falcons.

For further information please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Mark Biel, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212.

The Black Hills climbers pitched in and picked up a ton of trash around Falling Rock climbing area just outside of Rapid city, South Dakota.  Plenty of folks showed up and had at it.  Michael reported that he was so busy working he forgot to take photos, but we have a few.

Wild Country, Petzl, Sylvan Rocks Climbing, Scheels, Black Hills National Forest, Take-a hike, and others pitched in some great climbing gear and items as door prizes, and it seems that everyone had a fine time.


Looking over Falling Rock Climbing Area near Rapid City, SD in the Black Hills National Forest.


Many volunteers showed up to support the Access Fund Adopt a crag at Falling Rock Climbing area.


Just a few of the crew of volunteers who showed up to pitch in and help out.

Please support the Access Fund and all the Adopt a Crag events.  The Access fund is out there working to protect your access to the rock climbing areas you love...please become a member and support them!!!

We'll be having another Adopt a Crag over at Devils Tower this fall, so if you missed the one at Falling Rock climbing area, please stay posted to the SR blog and Facebook Fan page and plan to head over to Devils Tower.  I past years sponsors have supported the event well, but local climbers have made a very poor showing.  I'm concerned that we may face access problems there in the future, so I strongly encourage climbers to attend events like Access fund Adopt a Crag Trail Days, and show the park managers how much we love and respect Devils Tower.  I don't know about you, but I find the rock climbing there to be unlike anywhere else I've been.  Great cracks that suck up super solid nuts, and seem to go on forever.  Gotta love the rock climbing there.

Thanks again to every one for showing up at Falling Rock.  I'm sure the folks at the Black Hills National Forest noticed your great energy and appreciated your help!  Extra Thanks to the Michael and Alex for putting together this event and all those who sponsored it.

The Sylvan Rocks climbing guides got up pretty darn early to start their day at Devils Tower.  We drove over from Custer, SD as the moon was coming round the Tower.



Because we know that over a long winter with lots of freeze thaw cycles, things out there on the rocks change.  So every season we get together for several days of guide training.  We check out some routes, tell outlandish stories and train on how to get ourselves out of a jam if bad things happen to good people.  Practice makes perfect you know.  On our last day, Sunday, we all road tripped to Devils Tower to show the new crew members around and have some fun giving each other a hard time and tons of bad route info.

The weather at Devils Tower was great.  The Black Hills still had some snow visible in the distant trees.  We all had tee shirts on, but were not sweating.  That is a rare and beautiful day at Devils Tower when that happens.  Several of us did get to rappel in the rain and come around the wicked slick and scary ledges from the SE side near Soler and El Cracko, but thats part of the fun. By the way....for any of you thinking of headed over.  The Devils Tower Climbing Rangers said they have not gotten around to replacing the Rainy Day Raps from over there after they were removed by a huge falling rock...so DO NOT TRY and use them.  And as always...wear your helmet when Climbing Devils Tower

During the course of the day we all summited a few times and learned that there are a few more loose rocks over there then last year.  All the rain seems to be washing a little bit of the Pigeon poop out of the cracks and loosening things up.  Be very aware of loose rock on the Meadows Finish, and a huge piece of rock that looks nice and bedded in the grass at the meadows rap station is pretty darn loose, and with a wrong push, it will plummet down the Bowling Alley....definitely a strike!   As always...don't hang out around the base of the Bowling Alley...its named that for a reason.

At the end of it all there was big pieces of red meat for everyone at the Crook County Saloon and Dining Emporium (located near the Devils Tower Y), and a few cold barley pops.  YUM YUM.

 
Chris Short roping up the shoulder approach on Devils Tower.


Our new guide Cheyenne, in his favorite red pants.

'
Cheryl looking good as ever...cranking that 5.7 climbing at Devils Tower.


The guides playing climbers, making sure they remember the way up the Durrance, Devils Tower most popular and slick route.


Living large near the meadows rap station at Devils Tower.


Standing 1000 feet or so above the Devils Tower prairie dog town.


Cowboy up Archer....you aren't in South Dakota anymore...welcome to Wyoming.


Gotta love looking at that deep blue sky on top of Devils Tower, WY.


.

I've mentioned it here before, but just wanted to remind everyone that tomorrow is the Adopt a Crag event at Falling Rock...one of the cool climbing areas off of Highway 44 near Rapid City that is in need of some work.  Grab your gloves and tools or just head over with willing hands, and do some good! 

There will be "door" prizes from Wild Country, Petzl, Mad rock and Sylvan Rocks Climbing.  Plus a barbecue to follow.  Come to the Adopt-A-Crag clean up to find out the location of the barbecue. Meet at the main parking area just off of Hwy 44 on Falling Rock Road. at 9:00am. Hosted by the Black Hills Climbers Coalition on May 22, 2010.  For more information contact Alex at awashbul12@gmail.com